Men's Sierra Pullover
I loved the design of the original pullover with the zippered front, but I wanted to try a snap style placket, to make things just a little different. It turned out to be easy enough and looks good too.
So, if you'd like to try out the snap placket on your Sierra, here's how to get it done...
Okay, first off, let's acknowledge the fact that the color blocking on the chest is not the same as the original pattern. I modified it with every intention of adding a chest pocket, which I thought would be pretty cool... And then mommy brain got the best of me, and I forgot. I had both parts of the bodice serged and top-stitched before I realized what was happening. If you'd like to modify the color blocking, here's a quick sidebar on that.
Color Blocking Mod:
With the bodice folded at center front, lay the original pattern piece for the color blocked option on top carefully matching the edges at the neck, arm, and shoulder.
Then, right sides together, serge the shoulder accent to the bodice. Press your seam toward the shoulder accent and top-stitch.
First we will need to cut an opening along the center front seam where we will add the placket. I chose a measurement of 9-1/4" from the neckline. Adjust this measurement to your liking, just remember to lengthen or shorten the placket pieces as well. With your bodice piece laying flat on the table, find the center front. Measure from the neckline straight down 9-1/4" making sure the ruler is straight along the center front. (If it is not straight you will end up with a caddywompus placket.)
Mark this 9-1/4" vertical line with a water soluble marker. Next, use your ruler to mark a 1" line perpendicular to your vertical mark (there should be 1/2" on either side of the vertical line).
Add 1-1/2" to your measurement to get the length of the placket pieces. From the top of the collar and with the additional 1-1/2" the length of my placket pieces are 14".
Cut 4 placket pieces measuring 14" long x 2" wide. Be sure to cut the length of the placket pieces along the straight of grain. Cutting the opposite direction will cause the placket to stretch... bad news.
After cutting the above pieces, I chose to go back and use a lighter weight fabric for the insides of the placket. This particular sweater knit fleece is very thick and would have created too much bulk. New pieces (seen below) are a cotton twill.
To create the placket, Line up your placket piece, right sides together, even with the top of the collar. Stitch placket piece to the bodice 1/2" from the edge, along your line of stay-stitching. Stop and back-stitch at the point shown by the arrow to secure.
Open up the placket piece. Lining up the top and unfinished edges, place another placket piece on top. Note that the piece on top should be black, as it is the inner placket piece. Sorry for the confusion.
Stitch along the edge, using a 3/8" seam allowance.
Open the placket. Your pieces should look like this when opened.
Again, matching the top and sides and having right sides together, place the inner collar piece on top of the opened placket.
Turn up 1/4"of the collar lining and pin to secure. Stitch along the green line, using a 3/8" seam allowance.
Flip open, turn the inner placket (black) piece up by 3/8" and press.
Beginning with the inner placket (black) piece, line up the edges, starting at the top of the collar.
Open the pieces to lay flat. Line up the inner collar piece, right sides together, with the top and outer edges of the placket. Make sure the collar is not twisted. Turn up 1/4" at the bottom of the collar and stitch using a 3/8" seam allowance.
Flip open, turn the outer placket (gray) piece under by 3/8" and press. Sorry no picture.
Working on the previously stitched side, fold the plackets, right sides together, taking care to match seams. Pin or clip to hold in place. Repeat on the opposite side.
Using a 3/8" seam allowance stitch along the upper edge of the collar. Back stitch at both ends 1" to reinforce the corner.
Clip the corners to reduce bulk.
At this point you can and should finish the collar. Fold under 1/4" on inner collar piece toward the wrong side. Secure to the outer collar piece with pins. Top-stitch from the outside, making sure to catch the turned up edge in your seam. Add a line of top-stitching around the upper part of the collar as well.
Almost Done!!! You should now have two beautiful placket pieces similar to those pictures below. If you choose to do buttons instead of snaps, now would be the time to add buttonholes.
For a man's pullover, tuck the right front placket to the inside, behind the little triangle. For a woman's pullover the left front would be tucked to the inside.
Next tuck in the little triangle, and fold the left placket over the top (right placket for women's).
It should look like this. Pin through both plackets to secure. This will hopefully keep your placket from migrating one way or the other.
Match up the two bottom flaps of the placket and top-stitch a box around the edge to secure. Then sew an X. Add snaps at your desired intervals. I used plastic KAM snaps about 2-1/2" apart, beginning about 2" from the bottom of the placket, and then two snaps on the collar piece.
Whew, you made it! Good job!! Now just follow the pattern to add the sleeves and pockets, and you are done. I hope this made sense and helped you achieve a professional looking snap placket for your pullover. Don't forget if you don't have the pattern yet, get over to 5outof4.com and pick it up. The man in your life will be so happy.
Now, enjoy some pictures of my super handsome hubby enjoying his new pullover.
Thanks for reading! Please email me with any questions at firstname.lastname@example.org